Vikisews Oona Dress Part 2: Sewing a Tiered Linen Summer Dress

Part two of my Vikisews Oona dress tutorial: sewing the summer linen dress with a tiered skirt, step by step, after the pattern changes in part one. It includes how to make your own bias tape from fabric.

What you'll learn: bias tape, casings and French seams

This part covers techniques you'll use again and again: bias tape made from fabric, elastic casings, a ruffled neckline and French seams. Homemade bias tape from a thin cotton is lighter and neater than most ready-made tape, which is quite thick.

My tips for sewing the Vikisews Oona dress

• Make bias tape from a light, thin cotton: cut strips on the diagonal of a 20 × 20 cm square, join them at 45°, and press the tape to 1 cm wide. A bias tape maker helps; I used a needle.
• Fuse a small piece of interfacing (1 × 4 cm) where the buttonholes go, on the sleeves and the skirt facing.
• Sew the sleeves with French seams, and finish the neckline ruffle with a rolled hem on the overlocker.
• The front bodice is partly cut on the bias and stretches, so spread the ease evenly when you attach the ruffle.
• Turning the narrow drawstrings: if the fabric frays and the hook rips out, don't panic. Hold the end of the strap instead of pulling the hook.
• Use the elastic length on the pattern, but try it on before you sew it closed.

What you need to sew the Vikisews Oona dress

• Thin cotton for the bias tape
• Bias tape maker optional; a needle works too Find it ↗
• Interfacing small pieces for the buttonholes
• Elastic, 1 cm for the neckline casing Find it ↗
• Loop turner to turn the drawstrings Find it ↗
• Bodkin or a small safety pin, to thread the drawstrings Find it ↗
• Janome 2030 DC sewing machine Find it ↗
• Singer Heavy Duty 4432 sewing machine Find it ↗
• Elna 664 PRO overlocker for the rolled hems Find it ↗
• Bernina L 460 overlocker my second overlocker: I won it in a Vikisews sewing competition Find it ↗